Fabbrizio sweeps
the manila terrazzo floors of the café preparing for the day's traffic.
The polished steel counter reflects the morning sun beaming through the
window across the corner table in front of it. Sitting around the table
are three men, all regulars, enjoying a clear view of one of the cobblestone
streets off of the piazza. Their skin is the color of the café
macchiati that sit steaming in front of them. The men's symphony of
broad vowels and "rolling r's," deftly conducted by sweeping hand gestures,
impart a grand importance to the stories that they are sharing--all punctuated
by a percussive clanging of spoons against cups, the banging of a basket
of coffee grounds, and the echoing chuckle of the maestra responsible
for this café concerto. The barista is Maria Marina Tuzza,
also known as Mimmi to her closest customers. Her clear-framed glasses
with purple lenses flash her warm and friendly nature, but disguise her
analytical gaze.
"Since I have
worked in the bar, I have become a psychologist," Mimmi comments.
She prides herself
on her intuitive ability to read people's personalities. Mimmi is very
familiar with many of the Cagliesi and it is her knowledge of their personal
histories and their place in the community that feeds her insights.
A woman saunters
into the café. Her voice sings out her order in a raspy tenor: "cappucino
con zucchero." The selection and her distinctive delivery of the order
causes Mimmi's head to perk up: another regular, another friend. Mimmi
begins to talk to her. A quick "Ciao" is followed by some small
talk and stirred up with a laugh. The regulars that fill Caffè
del Commercio every day are all friend-customers.
People stop in
before work for a quick sip as well as an update on the lives of the people
in the café. Retired locals linger over café macchiati
and latti. They indulge in sweet pastries, called pastas.
Mimmi spots some of her regulars coming across the piazza and has their
drinks hot and ready when they enter. Even in the summer months, when
there is an influx of visitors, Mimmi records her new customers' preferences
so she can continue her tradition of excellence in personal service and
congeniality. Mimmi likes to sit and chat with all of her customers but
especially with these tourists and visitors. Despite language barriers
she manages to include them in the extended family of her clientele. Mimmi's
sociability has been passed on to her sons Fabbrizio Bartoli and Pier
Giorgio Bartoli, the owners of the café.
Mimmi covers
the early morning shifts and is relieved by Fabbrizio or Pier Giorgio
in the afternoon into the late evening. The brothers' afternoon and evening
shifts are in a constant rotation, but the same engaging atmosphere remains.
Fabbrizio and Pier Giorgio, or "Bicio" and "Dodo" as referred to by the
regulars, keep a younger and livelier evening crowd entertained. A crisp
summer evening in Cagli is always warmed up by the energy and passion
that Fabbrizio and Pier Giorgio bring to the café. Fabbrizio's bellows
are heard across the piazza, attracting outsiders to join the never-ending
party at the bar. Pier Giorgio is younger and more reserved than Fabbrizio,but
his charming cheek-to-cheek smile, crystal blue eyes, and dedication to
the bar and his customers is hard to ignore.
At 3 a.m. the
music is lowered and the Bartoli brothers take on the task of clearing
out the bar. The fun that has kept their customers loyal and entertained
all evening also has a negative side. No one wants to leave. The shutters
soon begin to slide to a close and another day at the
Caffè del Commercio has drawn to an end. The crowd shuffles
outside and begins to fade, despite their desires to stay. Tomorrow is
another day, a new production, and in a few hours the café's action
will begin again.